Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Late Wednesday August 24th

Wow! so much has happened and Ive done so many things since my last post. I have not had access to the Internet for several days so I will try to catch up.
I have explored much of the Kenai peninsula south of Anchorage. I traveled all the way down to Seward and across and down to Homer. From Dead horse up north down to Homer is over1000 Miles, and as I write this I have driven over 6000 miles! Alaska is really hug,  I have only seen part of the state. The only thing I haven't enjoyed is the rain, It has rained almost every day.Rain colors the way you see things.
On the peninsula I went to Exit Glacier. I went to the face of the Glacier and saw that there was a 4.4 mile hike to the ice field above the glacier. Well I was game, I thought I would at least go part way. I found out later that this almost nine mile round trip climbed over 4000 ft and was considered a strenuous 6 hour hike. About half way up I was trying to decide if If it was smart to keep going. Then I met Jena a young park ranger and struck up a conversation with her She has worked for the park service for 4 summers. She told me "pain is only temporary but the glory lasts forever" I'm glad I stuck it out. The view from the top was wonderful! I also hiked along with Ivan from Bulgaria. We also talked a bit. We even saw mountain goats on the trip.
Down the road was a place that sold Antlers and various other treasures. Tom the owner was a really interesting guy he carves antlers and Mammoth tusks and has a huge selection and wonderful stories.  He came to Alaska at the age of 19 in 1971. We spent a long time talking and he told me of some other places I should visit.
There are so many things I may talk about later but I did want to mention the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation center. It is near Portage and it was very cool. They have rescued and Orphaned animals to raise and protect. You walk or drive through their 200 acre facility and see Buffalo, Moose, Caribou, Black bear, Grizzly Bear, Eagles and more. I marveled at how docile these Animals are behind wire. Comfortable in a cage. Or is it resignation?
Ive been thinking about the freedom I have felt on this trip and I have also thought of cages. Many times cages are of our own making. Sometimes we feel trapped and unhappy. Are we comfortable where we are or resigned to our situation like the bear? Where we are could be good for us and we should make the best of it. Sometimes the best thing is to work to change the situation. Attitude is the key to being happy where we are.  Courage is the key to make changes.
A lot more could be said and as I reread this I may have more thoughts, but it is very late ( near midnight)
Until next time enjoy your own journey. And make the best of life inspite of the rain ( or cages)

(having trouble with pictures, will add them later)
Me standing above the Exit Glacier


Holding a mammoth tusk in Alaska Horn and Antler




A Grizley in captivity


Friday, August 19, 2011

Friday Morning August 19th

Wow!  It is Friday already! It is really hard to keep track of the days... I am on Vacation! I think I kind of disappeared into Alaska. And I mean that almost literally.
Through a chain of relationships I contacted someone living in Alaska named Chris. Chris and I have been talking and we got together. It is one thing to talk with someone from this state, But it is a step beyond to actually spend a lot of time with them.
I really enjoy Chris. He is starting to build a camp in the woods. I spent a couple of nights there,  and that is why I have not been able to post. Last night I actually stayed at his house and I'm posting from his computer. I couldn't even call from his camp.
Chris is an avid outdoors man and He invited me to fish. I have never been a fisherman but I thought,Hey I need to be willing to try something new! Tuesday night we went fishing. We went miles down one of the worst mud hole filled road I have ever seen. We fished in a river until 10:30 that night and caught nothing. People 100 feet away were pulling them in and I admit I was a little jealous for their spot. It was cold, and I could even see the sunset on a Glacier a few miles away. This seemed nuts! I could hardly believe what I found out about the level of commitment of these fishermen.

The next day we tried another spot. And I kid you not, My first cast I caught a beautiful Silver Salmon. I ended up catching 4 nice fish in a fairly short time. I was hooked! I noticed other fishermen were looking at me pulling them in. Maybe a little envious ? I have a picture of two of my fish. We had grilled Salmon that night.

I saw some really cool museums in Anchorage yesterday. I really enjoyed the history and all the information about the native people of Alaska. They were so resourceful and creative. I will talk more about them when I can post more pictures.

 We went out fishing again last evening! We could see the fish in the river swimming by. We would cast right in front of them but they just wouldn't bite. That's the way it goes.
 It doesn't always go the way you want, but I enjoyed the experience anyway.
I'm headed south today. To move onward with my journey. Fishing helped me to learn about the unexpected.... but to accept and enjoy life anyway.

Here are two of my 4 Silver (Coho) Salmon

Monday, August 15, 2011

Monday August 15th Evening

Today I traveled almost to Anchorage. It was a very pleasant day.... maybe a little too much clouds and rain. That hindered the view of Mt Mckinley or is it Denali? I'm confused. There is some contention about the name.(see the photo below). Just when I thought there was little chance of a good view, it really was spectacular from the south view point. The road between Fairbanks and Anchorage is very scenic. So many mountains rivers and streams. I have not shown a lot of pictures of the rivers and streams because you usually see them going over a bridge, and to photograph them I would have to find a place to park and walk back a long ways to get a shot (in the rain). I would never get anywhere, and its hard to capture the effect of there number.

I found another neat little trading post in Tatlanika, about half way along my trip. Some of these places are a lot of fun! The lady running the post grew up near there and went to college in New Mexico. I've include a few photos of this place. Ive also included a picture of Scott that I meet in Deadhorse.

When I got close to Anchorage it started to pour and I had a little difficulty finding a suitable place to stay. I ended up backtracking to Wasilla and found a great spot. The rain had ended here and it has a nice view of the mountains. I was most likely going to be heading up this way tomorrow anyway.

 I don't know what tomorrow might bring.... But I have come to be excited about the unexpected...
 But you know, life rarely goes as you would expect. At least not by our plans. Is your life now the way you expected it to be a few years ago? Mine certainly isn't! It can be a hard lesson to learn and accept, but taking the things in life that come at us with a good attitude goes a long way toward our happiness. Some things we can change, and should, some things we cannot. Things can be beyond our control or to late. Learning not to let life frustrate, anger or discourage you goes a long ways toward learning to enjoy the journey.
Until next time enjoy your journeys.

Scott That I meet in Deadhorse, I saw again two days later in Fairbanks

Another cool Trading Post!


Polar Bear Sited! In a trading Post! Wonder what he's there for?

More Animals Hanging out , including two Harley Riders! (only kidding my friends)


I wonder how well that worked?

I'm Confused!

The Mountain, I learned McKinley, Kind of think it should be Denali

Monday Morning August 15th

Hi everyone. Yesterday was just a relaxed day near Fairbanks. I decided to go northeast up the Steese Highway toward Circle. This is back up toward the Yukon river and an old gold mining area. I just poked along and went out to see what I could find. I found remnants of old gold mining camps and equipment. Then I turned down a side road and went back in about 20 miles. I even forded a stream and tried some gold panning on Nome creek. Didn't see any gold. I picked and enjoyed a few more huckleberries.

One of the more interesting things was that I stoped at the Long Creek trading post. I meet Paul the owner and operator. He is from Wisconsin and has been there for 12 years. He says that he wished it had been longer. he has done the gold thing but now he just supports the miner.  He is a hardy soul that does what he can to make a living in Alaska. He tells of many people coming up to find gold and realizing it is really hard work. He has some some interesting fossil's that he found in stream beds and some given to him. Some are Mammoth bones. I must have talked with Paul for nearly an hour. It is really good to connect and try to find out a little about the folks of Alaska.
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This morning I also ran into three guys from Seattle that I meet back at Deadhorse.  They rode there KLR650's up the Dalton. Scott, one of the guys in the group, grew up in Anchorage and is headed their where his father lives. We talked a while about the trip and motorcycles and we exchanged contact information.

Long Creek Tradingf Post

Fossils found in Alaska by Miners

Paul Potvin, Long Creek Trading Post

The road thru Nome Creek
Time to get on with my Journey,Headed toward anchorage. We will see what today may bring. I'm loving all the things that come along....

Sunday, August 14, 2011

Map of Alaska

I was ask for a map. Here is a fair one I found. It will give you some idea wher I am. For perspective Fairbanks to Prudhoe bay is 489 miles. Iv'e driven 3600 miles so far on this trip. Its a journey and I am having fun along the way, often in unexpected ways. I met someone interesting this morning named Roger. He recomended I go to an old gold mineing area in the Yukon not to far from here. I plan to check it out!

Saturday Evening August 13th Back from the Arctic

I must be on vacation, I'm loosing track of the days! I took a 1000 mile round trip to the Arctic ocean and Back. That may not sound like much distance for three days but that was about 26 hours of driving plus all the sights to see.The Dalton highway, also known as the haul road, is rough and treacherous. Someone died on this road just this week. It is about half paved and half gravel/dirt/mud. it has been raining and there is always repairs going on.
I reached the Arctic circle Thursday and camped in a old lake bed 100 miles north of the Arctic circle. I could see a glacier from where I camped.  That night the sun set at about 11 pm but it was still light at 1:30. it kind of plays games with your sleep, but I got about 5 hours. Its not as cold as you might think. it was 42 at night and about 60 in the day.
Friday I traveled north and it started looking more and more desolate. I saw Caribou and bow hunters. I even saw one make his kill. I walked across the tundra and talked with him. his name was Mark from Michigan and his brother Chris from Colorado. It is really difficult to walk on this land. Its like walking on sponges. It is technically a desert because of the low rainfall, but because of the permafrost just a short way down the water does not soak in. there is water everywhere.... And quite a few bugs.
 I made it to Deadhorse and took a tour of the oil facility and stood in the arctic ocean. The water didn't seem any colder than  the Pacific but the wind was.The air temperature was 49. Deadhorse felt like you were in an industrial camp. (that's what it is). It is not touristy at all except they give tours by the oil facilities and to the ocean. The first 2/3rds of the trip up was scenic then the trees disappeared and it looked very barren.

The trip back was long. I camped one night at the dry lake again. (Chosen for being dry and fewer bugs). It rained on the last half of the journey back. What a slick muddy mess! My pickup was so coated with mud I couldn't get in or out without getting muddy. Back to a campground in Fairbanks. A shower, laundry,resupply and rest before further journeys.

There was a real highlight for me coming back. I stoped at the Yukon river visitors center. I met a couple there that were field editors for the milepost guide to Alaska. Sharon (the editor) reflected on her childhood trip to Alaska and has been editing for the Milepost since 1971. I told her someone I often thought about was "on the road with Charles Karault" She said he was also one of her inspirations and she had just reread his book!

On this long haul I had a lot of time to think and reflect. I choose the name of my blog to also reflect on life's journey, not just a trip. There are things to learn in reflecting on a trip, and there are things to be gained by reflecting on life. I have personally thought a lot recently about God, Myself, and Relationships. There are things I have observed on this trip that meld in with my thinking. Just to touch on a little...
When your north of the Artic Circle and particularly north of the Brooks range it looks very barren. But if you walk out in the land and observe there is beauty there. Even among bareness and hostility there are good things. I found beautiful flowers, and huckleberrys that were very good. On my trip back from deadhorse I had a headache and Ia long way to go. I was feeling kind of blah. Then I thought of all the good things that I have in my life such as friends. And the things that come along as in meeting interesting people or something beautiful. Is it God that does that? to encourage us, to bless us? Dont let the world get you down ther are good things to be found on the Journey.

It was over 60 Degrees at the Arctic circle

Found these Huckleberries in the Arctic. Delicious!

Before going over the Brooks Range to the North Slope

This is where You buy gas in Deadhorse 5.10/gal

Yes thats Mud!

WHAT A MESS! Back to Fairbanks

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Evening Day 6 In Alaska

WowI have gone a long ways since my last post. Last post was Watson Lake in the Yukon. Watson lake has something called the signpost forest. A sign was posted there in 1942 and since then it has become a tradition to allow anyone to post there own sign from where they are from. There are literally thousands of Posts with approximately 72 Thousand signs. I plan to post one on my way back home.
 I stopped in a little town of Teslin Yukon and saw a very interesting Indian museum. I would like to share some pictures from these two places but I unfortunately lost (misplaced I hope)  the memory card with these photos.( lost my Memory :) ) That really bugged me until I decided that it wasn't that big of a deal. If I don't find it I will be going back that way in a few weeks. Besides its just pictures.
I planed to stop short of Alaska yesterday but My GPS took me lead me to a place that wasn't there. Being this far north it stays light much later so kept driving. I  hit Alaska at 10:45 PM and the sun looked to be still an hour above the horizon! I took some pictures at around 11PM while it was still light. Very cool! I did stop and go to sleep around 11:30 even though it was still light.
This morning I saw a huge mosquito the size of a man!(see the picture) I stopped at the north pole and ended up in Fairbanks. Fairbanks has a very nice Pioneer Park with free museums and displays. You can go on an old stern wheeler. See old mining stuff. an airplane museum and much more.
I traveled 606 miles yesterday and 227 today. So far I traveled 2592 miles. I'm glad to have  paid only 3.93 for gas. I had to pay up to 5.51 in Canada. It's also good to make contact with some friends and family back home.
Tomorrow I start up the Dalton Highway toward the Arctic. This could be a 4 day trip.Until next time, enjoy your own journeys, I will enjoy mine.


Man size Mosquto... actually burl


This steam shovel worked on The Panama canal ,Hawaii and in Alaska


Indian tossing blanket of skins

At the North Pole

Crossing into Alaska just before 11pm